Method and means for making brassieres



Jan. 22, 1935.

w. ROSENTHAL 1,988,517

METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING BRASSIEERES Filed March 1'7, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR WILLIAM Rossm'liM- BY E H ATTORNS Jan.22, 1935. w. ROISENTHAL 1 1,988,517

METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING BRASSIEIRES Filed March 17, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 421 INVENTOR W1 1.1mm RosENTHAL BL q,

HIS ATTORNEYS Patented Jan. 22, 1935 L 1 9 3 517,

: f -sg.umreo STATES PATENT OFFICE mrrnon AND MEANS FOR; f I W BEASSIERES' j William Rosenthal; New York',-1N. Y., assign'or to a Maiden. Form Brassiere .C'o.,'Inc.,--New York, N. Y.,- a. corporation of New York -j v M ApplicationMarch 17, 1932', Serial No. 561421 f 7 3Claims. (cum-19).

. This invention relatestoa brassiere of knitted Figurefiillustrates diagrammaticallyone manfabric in which the pockets for the; bust are free ner in which the stretched fabric maybecut to of seams. It also relates to an improved method separatethe portions which are used to form; the Of making such a brassire by means of which; respective pockets. of the brassiere; I the pockets may be shaped as desired, 'irrespec- Figure 7 show lone form 015a completed bra5- 5 tive: of their original shape as knit, andv to a siere and the manneriniwhichthepocket pieces method of shaping the pockets to give them the are combined with'the, rest of the brassiere con:- desired form and characteristics not found-in structiom; w r H L the original knittedfabric. V f Figure ,3 shows another. form of .completed --.The .fabric ,fromwhich the brassire of this brassire and the manner in which'the pockets l0 invention may. be made can be knitted on a. cire may be combined' with the rest of the brassire cular knittingmachine of the type which pro-, construction; i duces whatis known as gussets. That is to -Figure-. 9: is a VieW Qf; asecond possible form of say,-po'ckets which are knit into the fabric during a gstretchingframeover', which the. fabric'may be the knitting operation without any seams, such stretched-during the process whereby it isv given 1 as would-be requiredin order to, form pockets its final shape and-characteristics; and in fiat knitted fabric. Figure v1o s a yiewbtethirdrnb ib i Accordingly, one of the objects of this invenof stretching 'f rame ior also accomp in h tion is the creation of a novel brassiere havin desired stretching with a part thereof broken seamlesspockets; away; T Another object of this invention is the creation -As point edo ut in my coper'ld g p ca n for of alnovelhbrassirehaving seamless pockets Unitfid'fitatesltetters Patent Seri aI O, 6 made of'a knitted'fabric formed. to give the 'de-' filed January 1Q,, l 9 33 k tei P d 2 sired breast receiving and supporting configura-- by circular knittingup to the .timeof my invenion. l

'Another'further object of this invention is the the vreasonthar.. ,the,seamless-pocketscould creation of a method and the provision of means not-be given the proper shapeand thee flc l y for making and properly forming a. brassiere and other characteristics oi the fabric-in itsprighaving seamless pockets. inalknittedgform, tallowe d the pockets-to. stretch tion ,h'ad never been practical for brasfsieresfor These and many'other objects are secured by and; to losewhatever-shape they had. 3Q

the invention hereinafter disclosed I L ye inventionso my app i at on abovemen- This invention resides substantially in the "tionedI pointed outj-how 1 overcame :these decombination, construction, arrangement and relfectsiandprocured a wbrassiere oi knitted fab ative'locati'on of parts,.as well as in steps, seric with seamless pocketsof gthQ size and shape quence of steps and combination of steps all as desired, r irrespective ,of 11311911: original knitted 35 will appear more fully hereinafter. shape and which'would-retaintheir shape there: v

Referring to the'drawings in which thesam aftein. such pocketsbeing seamless all possireference numerals will be used throughout the bilityf'of irritation of the wearer's skin wasacseveral views to' indicatethe same orisimilar cordinglyobviated. L

E parts, l U e a Figure 1 is a diagrammatic illustration of a vestigation,I have-discoveredcertai f fil pieceoffabric-knit on a circular knitting mapr v m ntsi uth m d o eand a for chine showing the pockets in their original, 'irmaking knitbrassieres having seamless pockets regular conical shape; as well asin theresulting-brassieres which-I now 45 Figure? is aview of mynovel stretching frame disclose; u

over which the fabric is stretched during the 'Turning'to Figured it willbe noted thatapiece process whereby it is given its final shape and of'knit unprocessed material is showngwhich, has characteristics; a I twocpockets: l1 and. 2zwhich consists =-,of excess "Figure 3' illustrates diagrammatically two seamless material formed-during the: knitting.

pockets cut from the original knitted material This fabric produced; asgdescribed above with and Stretched p the form f re the integral seamless pockets'of irregular coni- Figure 4' is a sectional view taken along the calform isfirst dyed and then cut to separate ne O Figure I r r from the body of thematerial the desired part Figure 5 illustrates a variant possible embodiincluding the two similar pockets. Then .qthe ment of the construction shown in Figure 4; cut edge'saare'" sewn to prevent ravel1ing andthe Ass-a result of, further, experimentationand in- 40 a fabric is stretched over the frame 3 as shown in Figure 3, which frame may be made of any suitable material, and which has the outline desired for the pockets of the finished brassiere found in its upper edge 4. For this purpose I have found it desirable to construct and form my frames as shown injeitherFig'ures 2, 9 or 10. Each of these framesI' provide with" serrated strips 5 running longitudinally of and parallel to the base thereof. The serrations on these strips are outwardly ro: jecting and are .adapted toengage withrthe fabric that is stretched on the frame and to hold said fabric in stretched condition.

In Figure 2, these serrated strips .5 are secured. to an adjustable cross rod 6 which is securedto the vertical sides '7 of the frame 3 at'different heights by means of screws 13 Each, of the vertical sides 7 is provided with a plurality of threaded holes 8 disposed over one another into.

. posed Werpnei'anotherf 'So that cross rod 6 maybe maint'ained'in f alignment with the base of'frame 3 it is'b'e'sides the joggling at each end thereof alsojoggled at its midlength as shown at12, and may at this point be secured by another one of the screws 13 to the'appropriate hole'lO in member 9; {The cross rod fi'is of course,-provided with thejnecessary holes at each foot 11 and in the center to per'mit of the passage of the necessary 'scr'ewsf13 'therethrough and into the appropriate"holes '8 in sides T and hole in 40' member Thus by securingscrews 13 into a sel'ected'set of holes 8.10, the height of cross rod 6 may within the'limits of the holes be adjusted as desired in avertical direction. "Ina lilre fashion'frame'ii is provided at upper I: edge '4, adjacent to and on each side of cross miember' Q, -witha plurality of holes 14, horizontallydisposed one next t'o'the' other. Cross member 9fis ;alsoprovided' near; its lower end and justabove' the uppermost hole;10 therein with the longitudinallyextending-horizontal arms 15, each of which-also isp'rovidedwith a plurality of. holes-15' "horizonta1lydisposed one next to the other: Secured by screws 18 to frame. 3 and to each 'of arms-'15, are vertical rods 16,?which run parallel' to" member 9, are"adjustable horizontally and also carry serrated-strips 17'. Asis apparent these vertical" rods 16, by selectively screwing screws 18 into selected holes 14. '15" may be horizontally adjusted so that said rods'within the limits of the holes may be disposed in any predesired relation with respect to' each other and/orwithrespect to-cross member 9. .2: Carried'by the uppermost end of each of rods 16 are the pin' like hooks 19 which are adapted to engage and hold the material in stretchedcone dition; "Similarly the-frame 3 at the ends .of upper edge i isprovided with thehooks 20 for receiving and holding the material when stretched on the frarne. By providing the serrated strips 5 and-lion the respective rods 6 and 16, which rods are' 'adjustable as-just pointed out, I am able to' -adjust'ably arrange for a predetermined amount of "stretchingat 'onetime of either both pockets or a singlepocket. 15

To insure a firm holding of the material I: also 'may be observed in Figs. 2 and 4, I may substitute and use with equal effect the variant embodimentshown in 'Fig. 5, wherein, instead of using a' single element 21 disposed on one side of cross member '9, I; employ two elements 46 and 4'7 disposedion opposed side of member 9 and secured theretobyscrew48 and nut 49. These elements are also provided with holding prongs 22', 23' an'd24', respectively so that the same desired effect may be procured thereby without the necessity of having the prongs of different lengths depending on whetherthey are tobebent backward'or forward.

The circular knit fabric comprising either two unformed pockets, asshown in Fig. 1, or a single unformed pocket as the case maybe, is stretched over the frame3, as shown in Fig. 3, and the material thereof caught on the serrations, prongs, etc. "Screws 13 are unscrewed and cross rod '6 is pulled down until the'fabricis firmly stretched over the frame 3 to thedesired degree withthe pockets or pocket taking the outline of the upper edge 4 thereof. Cross rod 6 is then secured with the fabric inthis stretched condition by screwing screws 13 into the appropriate set of holes 8, 10. a i

In doing this, of course, the fabric is caught on the pins 19, 20, 22, 23, 24 and 25 or 19, 20, 22, 23", 24' and 25', as the case may be, as well as by the appropriate serrated strips 5 and 1'7. In the event that two unformed pockets are being stretched all of these holding devices are brought into play. Inthe event, however, that but one pocketis being'stretched, then but:one-half of the frame either rightzorleft need be used. It will, of course, be understood that after the rods 6 and 16 have'once been adjusted as desired the frame may be repeatedly used without further adjustment for other pieces of fabric to be successively treated. When the fabric is stretched, as above pointed out, the desired outline is given to the pockets and they are flattened as required so that thematerial may thereafter, when subsequently removed from the frame, be conveniently cut and otherwise practically commercially treated and handled.

The fabric thus stretched is steamed or otherwise heat treated and then permitted to cool and dry upon the frame. j

It will also be understood. thatdue to the fact that the material after blocking is flattened that a number of pockets. after removal from the frame can be' stacked and simultaneously and uniformly cut as desired, thus reducing manufacturing time and expense.

When it is removed it will be found'the pockets have lostntheiroriginal shape and outline and havepermanently taken the outline of edge 4 of the frame and also, instead of being generally conical in shape, are exceedingly fiat, as shown in Fig. 3. It will be found that the pockets will retain this outline and, flatness throughout the life of the brassiere and will not revert to the original shape.

After the fabric. has been steamed, set, and removed from the. frame the individual pockets nected to the rest of the brassiere to form the completed articles as shown in Fig. '7 or Fig. 8.

In many instances it will be found desirable to use a stretching form of solid material rather than a skeleton framework. In Fig. 9' I have shown a solid form provided with a multiplicity of holes 34, which will permit of steam treatment of the material stretched on that form. Steam or hot air used for drying purposes may readily pass transversely through said solid form by means of the holes 34 which permit of the appropriate treatment of the material stretched thereover. The necessary serrated strips, as well as the pins, are provided so that this embodiment may be used in substantially the ame fashion as that of Fig. 2.

In Fig. 10, a still further embodiment is shown wherein the form, instead of being made solid, comprises two partially curved sheets 35 which are joined along the upper edges 4 and which sheets also are perforated with holes 34 to permit of the heat treatment of the material stretched on the frame. With this embodiment a chamber is formed between the plates'35 in which a heating or drying unit or any other available desired apparatus may be contained for treating the material as stretched upon the complete framework.

When embodiments such as those shown in Figs. 9 and 10 are used the material of course, will. permanently. lie substantially against the fiat sides of the frame, and if desired, could be pressed thereagainst or otherwise subjected to such treatment as can be advantageously practiced when the material is stretched over a flat body. Also when using these embodiments either holes must be provides through the solid body or sheets for the prongs of elements 21 to extend through or else the two element construction of holding devices 46, 4'7 of Fig. 5 must be employed. It will be noted that apart from the differences mentioned the embodiments of Figs. 9 and 10 are otherwise the same as that of Fig. 2.

Employing any one of the frame or form embodiments above described I am able to. convert a fabric which is utterly useless for brassieres into a 'very useful type of fabric for that purpose and obtain a brassiere having seamless pockets of any desired outline by appropriate treatment and cutting, irrespective of their shape and outline in the fabric as originally out.

Since the original size and shape of the pockets have little effect within wide limits, upon the size and shape of the finished pockets, I am able to produce a large variety of pocket sizes and shapes from the identical fabric, thus greatly simplifying and reducing the cost ofmanufacture.

The pockets thus shown, shaped and appropriately cut, may, as above stated be incorporated in any desired brassire construction, such as that shown in Figs. '7 or 8. In Fig. 7 the brassiere consists of two pockets 32 attached to each other as shown at 36. The free ends of the pockets are attached to additional fabric back bands 37 and 3e; cheer T these-"back bands to wit; 38,- termi which is'secui'ed to'the free -en'dofbackhand 37 by cooperating'hooks and eyes as at 40. J

The usual shoulder straps41-may of course, also be provided} Asfshownthese'shoulder straps if *de'sired may also be provide'd with elastic elements 442;. interposed vthe-length thereof near the end thereof so as to lend to said shoulder straps a certain degree of adjustability. In Fig. 8 the pockets 33 are obtained by cutting the fabric on one side of the frame along the lines 28, 29 and 29' and that on the other side of the frame along the lines 30 and 31. r The pocket formed, if not already secured together maybe secured along the line 42. Secured to these pockets along the bottom edges thereof is a strip 43 which extends past the pocket around the wearers body and replaces the usual back bands. Secured to each free end of the strips are elastic elements 44 which are adapted to be joined together at the free ends thereof by tabs 45 carrying the necessary hook and eye. The embodiment also is provided withshoulder straps 41 and the elastic elements 42' so as to give a certain degree of adjustability to the shoulder straps. In the embodiment shown in Fig. 8, the elimination of the usual back bands presents a brassiere of lighter, more dainty and fragile construction.-

The proportions of the respective brassiere will, of course, be" determined by the dimensions of the different elements, as well as by the shapes and sizes to be produced whereas, the size, shape and outline of the pockets themselves are determined by the outline and dimensions of the particular stretching frame described above.

It will be understood, of course, that the process herein described contemplates the production of the desired pockets, either individually or in pairs, as well as in numerous other ways within the scope of the invention.

It will also be understood that variations in the construction of the different stretching frames may be made in a number of possible directions so that the same general desired results may be attained and that the different frames herein disclosed may with equal success possibly be used for purposes other than those herein described. Moreover, I am of course, aware that many changes in the details of constructions and relative arrangements of parts, as well as in the steps,

ing-said pocket to size and shape upon a frame,v

then steaming and thendrying said pocket while stretched upon the frame, and thereafter cutting the material thereof along appr'opriate lines of out to provide a pocket of the desired configuration.

2. The method of producing a sized and shaped brassiere having seamless pockets from knitted fabric not suited to such use in its natural state,

said fabric having in its natural state pockets therein of a shape other than that of the finished pocket, which consists of stretching the fabric and its pockets to size and shape upon a frame while wet, drying the fabriowhile ityis stretched and-sized, and thereafter cutting the fabric along appropriate lines of; cut,,-and ,uniting the out parts to -produce a brassire ofrthe desired configuration.

3., In an article 10f thev described, a rod, a plurality of integral vertical rods secured to said base rod,- integral V-shaped rods'extendstretched over the, frame.

1 e ROSENTHAL. 

